Organic Wines
Portuguese organic wines — and those of the rest of the world — are no longer a novelty, but the reality is that their share compared with traditional wines is still very small. France has around 4% of its wines certified as organic and expects to grow, by 2022, to a share of around 8%. We are talking about the world’s leading country in sales of these wines.
For us, who know inside out the virtues of a good organic wine, this leads us to question why these wines, sold all over the world, have not yet grown exponentially in terms of sales. Perhaps the explanation lies in the mark left by a certain fundamentalism that shaped the start of this movement, holding some wine consumers back.
On tasting organic wines, there were those who felt great differences compared with conventional wines, and not in the best sense. There was even talk of strange and at times unpleasant flavours. But in the meantime a great deal has changed…
Today winemakers have understood that Portuguese organic wines cannot fall short of the flavour of conventional wines.
They must, rather, stand out for their purer aromas and flavours, and their stability and longevity in the bottle must be guaranteed. If we carry on like this, we will undoubtedly win back wine lovers and grow exponentially in the coming years, since we all know that the Earth needs this help.
What Are Organic Wines?
Organic wines are the result of organic grape production. Until 2012, in the European Union, there was no legislation for organic wines. Only the designation “wine from organically produced grapes” was used, and the winemaker in the cellar had no rules to comply with in producing these wines. From that year onwards, rules and limits were introduced for the production of organic wines, among them the reduction of the sulphur dioxide limits. For the remaining wines, the term “wine from organically produced grapes” is still used.
Organic Wines in Portugal
Portuguese organic wines are still a very small fraction of wines in general. The good news is that there is already an interesting percentage of vineyards under organic production that is not yet reflected in the production of Portuguese organic wines.
I believe that this reality of organic viticulture will continue to grow and that more organic wines will result from it.
Producers of Organic Wines
As Beira Interior is the region with the largest number of certified vineyards under organic production, it should also be the region with the most producers of organic wines. It is there that Casca Wines produces its organic wines, being today the number one producer of certified Portuguese organic wines in the country.
In the Alentejo, Herdade do Esporão already has its six hundred hectares of vineyard under organic production, but the production of organic wines is still limited. Throughout all the other regions we also find small producers who, besides organically produced grapes, also have their wines certified as organic.
Organic Vinho Verde still has little grape production under an organic regime. We, Casca Wines, although not yet producers of organic Vinho Verde, are committed to seeking out producers able to help us make our own organic Vinho Verde.
Differences Between Conventional and Organic Wines
The differences between conventional wines and organic wines are many.
It all begins with the way the vineyards are treated. Organic grape growers and producers cannot use any herbicide or pesticide, or any synthesised product. For the most part, they are limited to using only copper-and-sulphur-based sprays.
As with any good product, the raw material is its very essence.
And in wines this is very clear. Thus, organically produced grapes are, from the outset, born with quite different characteristics, which is later reflected in the wines.
In the cellar, too, the rules are different, aiming at less intervention in the making of the wine. For example, oenological products of organic origin are used. One of the most important rules in the production of Portuguese organic wines — whether from Beira Interior, the Alentejo, the Douro, Vinho Verde or any other region — is the reduction of the amount of sulphites used.
This rule obliges winemakers to work very well in the cellar and to be less interventionist in the production of organic red, white or rosé wines, whether organic Vinho Verde or organic Beira Interior wine. In the case of organic red wine, the polyphenolic compounds help the winemaker considerably, since they are antioxidant compounds, which in organic white wine or organic rosé wine exist in much lower concentration — hence the sulphite limit in organic red wine is lower than in white or rosé.
Where to Buy Organic Wine?
Today it is ever easier to buy organic wine. The Casca Wines online shop has every type of organic wine. Organic red wine, organic white wine, organic rosé wine, organic reserva wine. The only thing we do not have — yet! — is organic Vinho Verde, but we are working towards it.
It is also possible to buy in any hypermarket, since they all now have a space for Portuguese organic wines and, of course, in specialist shops, such as Celeiro or El Corte Inglés.
From the page to the glass
- 1808 Field Blend Beira Interior — An 80-year-old vineyard at 690 metres, 36 months in barrel, cellaring to 2062.
- 1808 Sauvignon Blanc — Sauvignon Blanc at 550 metres, where cold nights hold the aromatics.
- Cascale T Tinto — Spontaneously fermented at 690 metres, 18 months in French oak. Organic.
